Tuesday, March 4, 2008

New URL

I have set up a new blog at another site, one that is, at least for now, not blocked in China.

New site: Absurdity, Allegory and China.

If you are one of 4 or 5 people who actually subscribe to this blog, please change the address. I am still working on the look, and at the moment it is too green, but that will change as I get more familiar with how to make the changes to get it how I'd like it to look.

Friday, February 29, 2008

His Left Foot

It is nearly impossible to be in China right now and not feel the pain of Yao. Not the mythic Golden Age Yao who was reported to have lived until he was 119 and served as the model of the moral ruler for all emperors who followed. I’m talking about the 7’ 6” Houston Rockets’ Yao, who, on the threshold of the Olympics, is sporting a stress fracture in his left foot. Adrian Wojnarowski has an insightful look at what Yao Ming faces as he stares down the barrel of the greatest Chinese show on earth. He will play in the Olympics come hell or high water, though anyone who knows Beijing knows the only high water in northern China this summer will be coming from somewhere else.

Yao’s normal yearly schedule is one that is physically insane. Add the stress of a broken foot and the nationalistic pressures heaped on him by whatever ministry micromanages the every move of every athlete so as to ensure that they will either win or forever end up as goats, and we can get a slight glimpse into the psychological pressures that this giant of an athlete, who is also a star human being, faces.

I am reminded of two passages from a pair of books two millennia removed from each other. The first is from Mengzi (Mencius): “As Yao and Shun ruled the empire, it could not have been done without their fully devoting their minds to it, but they did not devote themselves to tilling the fields.”

The other is from John King Fairbank, the American scholar of Chinese history, who, in his last book before his death in 1991, wrote: “On the Long March the Red Army-CCP high command rode much of the way asleep on two-man litters, as the column followed the stone paths over hills and paddy fields. Usually they had been up most of the night handling the army’s intelligence, logistic, personnel and strategic problems to prepare for the next day’s march or fighting.” (China: A New History: 1987: p. 233)

It is clear that Yao is no Mao; there will be no one to carry him when his body fails. He will till the fields like all the rest who are not of the ruling class, and he will drop face first in the furrows before anyone will allow him a chance to heal his wounds. And if he fails to produce, he will never be allowed to forget it. This is what he knows. This is the way it is, row after row, for as far into the distance as he can possibly see. The Chinese might love their heroes, but they all know that no one carries a farmer.
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Thursday, February 28, 2008

Skinning The Cat

My love-hate relationship with the CCTV Headquarters complex continues, On February 20, 2008 the China Daily published an interview with Ole Scheeren, the architect heading up this project, and it is worth a look. The newspaper (it’s difficult to call a propaganda daily a newspaper, but this sort of sloppy "rectification of names" is the natural fallout when empires try to micromanage information: Murdoch, CCP, the Bush White House, etc.) printed several photos that accompanied the article, one of which was taken within the last couple of weeks showing the overhanging beak fully joined at the lower levels. The caption beneath the photo states, “Towers combine at the top in cantilevered headquarters for management.” This has been lifted nearly verbatim from OMA’s CCTV HQ webpage, which is ground I’ve already covered earlier this month, I know. But it is curious to see that the two sides in this construction partnership are still viewing things fundamentally differently. In the interview Mr. Scheeren states:
Also, the top of the building is no longer occupied by the senior management, but actually accessible to the entire staff in a staff forum.
In the very next paragraph Mr. Scheeren makes much of the symbolic deconstructing of the hierarchy implicit in the skyscraper:
So all these spaces have been very strategically delegated to avoid the conventional, hierarchical systems inherent in so many buildings - especially the skyscraper, with its pure verticality which seems to expel (sic?) a very banal construct of hierarchy where the top obviously, is the best and the bottom, the worst.
The China Daily, a vital organ of the CCP's body propaganda, is either not hearing Mr. Scheeren or allowing him this public delusion, knowing full well that the best seats in the house go to those who own, not hold, the reins. And if they know anything, they know in the deepest, darkest chambers of their hearts that in a system where everything rolls downhill, it is best to pacify those you need until they are no longer needed.

There are at least a few possibilities happening here: Mr. Scheeren is being snowed by the client; Mr. Scheeren knows the score but can’t bear to gag it out in public; or the China Daily is not doing their homework. In China, I can see that all three are possibly at work here, as odd as that may seem. It’s that ‘skinning the cat’ all over again: some start with the neck, others with the abdomen, and some begin by first chopping off the feet. There’s more than one way to do almost anything, from skinning a cat to telling the same story.
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Qinghai Students to Tianjin and Beijing

Again this year we brought sixteen folks from Qinghai to Tianjin where the 12 students and 4 teachers spent the week at the International School of Tianjin (IST), attending classes and introducing Tibetan culture to the students as well as the teachers at IST. To use a well-worn but accurate cliché, a great time was had by all. The Tibetans left Tianjin early Saturday morning, February 23rd, and traveled by bus to Shan Hai Guan in Hebei province where the Great Wall meets the sea. It was the first time any of them had seen the sea, and they were ecstatic. They arrived in Beijing on Saturday evening, and hit it again first thing on Sunday morning, hopping on the subway and going to Yonghegong (aka the Lamasery), an important Tibetan Buddhist temple with a 26 meter (85 feet) high Maitreya Buddha carved from a single piece of white sandalwood, the tallest wooden Buddha in the world. This, of course, was also a big hit.

Then it was off for a walk to Nanluo Guxiang where Dominic Johnson-Hill from Plastered T-shirts gave everyone in the group a tee shirt and a tour of the hutong, then treated them all to a great lunch at a Hakka restaurant in Houhai. Tian’anmen and the Forbidden City were next, and then it was back to their hotel. They took the train back to Qinghai on Monday afternoon, and I received a phone call yesterday (Wednesday) that they had all made it home safely. (Trying to score 16 train tickets was a bit of a trick, but Camille Yang took it in stride and was able to get them all hard sleepers, which they were very pleased with, since they could finally get some well-needed sleep.) So, our cultural exchange with folks from the Plateau went off again without a hitch thanks to much help from more people than I can possibly mention. Good stuff all around.

Saturday, February 16, 2008

Strolling Beijing

I have been in Beijing for the past two days. Later this morning I will go to Beijing West Train Station to meet the 16 folks coming in from Qinghai, and then we'll head back to Tianjin. The weather is great in the capital city. Yesterday I spent the day taking photos, and, of course, spent several hours in the afternoon and early evening circumambulating the CCTV HQ project (and no, it didn't fall down), getting into the Chinese housing blocks northeast of the complex to see how it feels from the POV of those who, no doubt, will be losing their homes after the Olympics as the CBD expands and gobbles them up. These folks have watched this thing rise up among them, knowing that it is the first line of attack which will inevitably set them to retreat. My love-hate relationship with this building continues. I can't take my eyes off it. Will post more photos when I return to Tianjin.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

The Long-Awaited Slap

One World, One Dream had another nightmare today. It took awhile, but the inevitable finally happened: Steven Spielberg pulled out from his participation in the opening and closing ceremonies of the 2008 Olympics, and Beijing is … quiet. According to the IHT article, the two spokesmen for the organizing committee were working on a response. This one should be good!

Yesterday morning while speaking with my wife about the high level of privilege some ex-pat kids grow into here, I mentioned Spieleberg’s Empire of the Sun and one of my favorite movie scenes. Jamie Graham (Christian Bale), the young boy who is separated from his parents as they flee Shanghai ahead of the Japanese, returns alone to his home and finds his ayi (nanny) carting off furniture that formerly had clearly been ‘The Grahams.’ Jamie, full of the propriety that once fueled an Empire, asks them what they were doing, and the Chinese woman who had to suffer under the weight of Jamie’s privilege, slaps him, a getting-up-to-speed-in-a-flash crack that has a here ‘n now-ness to it that drives the rest of the story. I love that slap. It’s the instance of pure education, that life as you've lived it has gravely veered, the information delivered perfectly, effectively. Life-long learning, indeed. A Chinese woman who knows exactly where things are headed gets young Jamie focused on the open page at the end of his nose. Great stuff.

(As an aside, I must say that I am neither condoning nor advocating corporal punishment. I am, in fact, strongly opposed to it after having been the young recipient of some pretty serious thrashings administered by adults, many of them ‘people of religion.’ God clearly whispered some weird secrets into their twisted ears to allow them such a dissimilar vision than the one I was in the process of doing my best to form. For the record, I remember every single one of those cocksuckers, and have often entertained getting even with all of them, until I realized they are all either dead or fixedly looking down the barrel at it.)

Maybe ayi slapped her own kids in anger, but young Jamie received something quite clearly different. Despite attempting to live alone as he had before things unraveled, young Jamie has slipped off the knife- edge, and at some deeper level he knows it. The slap was punctuation, an exclamation point, a hard sign that nothing would ever again be as it was.

So, once more Spielberg is involved in a slap, though it is one that has caught the Chinese off-guard. I’ve been wondering how this would play out – would SS follow the course or bail? – and now that he’s committed to not signing the contract, we’ve gotten a little closer to finding out how China will retaliate, for surely there’s a loss of serious face on this one. How the State’s weight will finally come down will probably work itself out in much the same fashion as the USS Kitty Hawk being refused entry to Hong Kong as a nah-nah for any number of perceived diplomatic jabs. I suspect Spielberg should prepare himself for never playing China again, but, then again, how much money does anyone really need. He will walk away from this one, and due to some level of Chinese reciprocity, take some sort of bath, though I feel as if he’ll get through it okay. Some others who are living as if they cannot get by without China, need to pay a little attention here. There are things that take precedent over profit.

A person who is moderately mentally healthy has a fairly good idea of how they are perceived by others who they interact with everyday. I believe that a convincing argument can be made that countries and their leaders can also be judged by how well they understand how they are seen by those who are not them. China’s flat-footedness, as IHT puts it, at this pullout is indicative of how little they are able to understand how they are perceived by the world beyond their borders. This latest incident and China's slow reaction to it is evidence enough that there is a lack of imagination at work here, and that the World with its multiplicity of Dreams is not quite ready to have it distilled into only one, especially one that's defined by China.
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Tuesday, February 12, 2008

The Ongoing Struggle

There continues to be much noise raised about the air quality for the Olympics in Beijing in 6 months, as there well should be. Anyone who has spent any part of a summer in the North China Plain knows how hot and humid it can be, and with the number of cars and factories cranking out pollutants, it will be curious to see just how clean they will actually be able to get the air. The Chinese have promised ‘no rain’ for the opening ceremonies, and after observing how they manipulated the weather for the August 8, 2007 year-long celebration kickoff to the Games – the We Are Ready salvo – their resolve can hardly be questioned, though their ‘weather mitigation’ folks sometimes get it wrong.

Xi Jinping, a member of the nine-person Politburo Standing Committee and the person seen by many as being the heir-apparent to Hu Jintao, has been chosen to run point on the preparations for the Olympics, handling the air quality and security issues which have dogged and will continue to dog the Chinese government in the lead-up to the Games. The stories just seems to get worse: USOC bringing their own food to Beijing; the persistent air quality concerns; the British Olympic team agreeing to a political gag order; and some teams opting to practice in other countries in the lead-up to the Games. Bleeding in public is not something the Chinese officials wish to do, though, despite all the triage, they just can’t seem to stop. Mr Xi is seen as being the man to stanch it. This should be an interesting one to watch, given his future potential.

It is interesting that neither the English versions of Xinhua or the China Daily are even covering this story (5 AM, February 12, 2008), proving once again that what is news elsewhere is not news here. Or rather, what is news here is not worth reporting. Now there’s a surprise.

But what’s also not a surprise is the latest ‘blue sky report’ from Beijing serving up the January stats for the number of days deemed ‘blue sky days’ in the capital this past month – 22. This works out well with their projected total number of blue sky days for 2008 – 256 – which puts them a bit ahead of the game after Month 1. They reached their goal last year by moving air quality measurement equipment from obvious trouble spots which were persistently reporting levels too high to reach their goal, proving once again that it’s all about Location.
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